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A postcard from... Brixham, Bruton & St. Ives
Art curator and founder of Particular Ideas, Charlie Dunnery McCracken sends us a postcard from her summer road trip around the South-West of England, with her partner and two kids, 5 and 2.
“ In Brixham the highlight was the breakfast at the B&B, home cooked and fresh local pastries, and kippers!”
Hello from…
Brixham, Bruton, and St. Ives. A true staycation hopping around the south coast during the summer holidays. We set out to strike a balance between adventure and rest, and as art enthusiasts, we made sure to include a few gallery strolls along the way.
Where we’re staying…
In Brixham we're staying in a B&B, Ranscombe House, in a large family room. We loved have the freedom to explore the house and sit in the gardens. The owner, Philip, is charming and friendly, very welcoming of our noisy two.
In St Ives, we're at Tregenna Castle Resort. We don’t usually opt for family resorts, but this one stood out thanks to its vast grounds, gardens, and a direct (very steep!) path to Porthminster Beach. There are also daily children’s activities, including a pub quiz, pet encounters, and even a fairy trail.
In Bruton, it's an Airbnb on the main high street; a beautifully converted church. The host, who lives in the building, has children herself, so the space was well stocked with toys and essentials like a highchair and cot.
“ Sitting outside, we watched the day’s catch being delivered, and my son even spotted a seal.”
The best meals we’ve had…
In Brixham the highlight was the breakfast at the B&B, home cooked and fresh local pastries, and kippers! We also enjoyed dinner on the Harbour at Rockfish, which doubles as a fish market. Sitting outside, we watched the day’s catch being delivered, and my son even spotted a seal.
St Ives was full with tourists like ourselves, so we stayed away from the traditional fish and chips options. We found ‘St Ives Bakery’ and the window was filled with meringues and focaccia. We bought many sweet treats as well as some yummy pies. We spotted a cute restaurant, St Eia’s, that was fully booked, but it’s reason enough to return.
Bruton's food has been incredible. We went to Hauser & Wirth and tried Roth Bar, which has an artist's sculpture as the bar. The grandson of Dieter Roth composed the bar out of salvaged materials and objects from reclamation yards in the surrounding area. Its a small menu with light bites, but the chicken burger was a hit as well as the croquetas. We also picked up provisions from the on-site farm shop for our Airbnb.
For breakfast we headed to At The Chapel, another converted church, which also has rooms you can stay in and a bakery. It was relaxed, stylish and family-friendly, with crayons and colouring provided. I had the merguez-spiced shakshuka, which my daughter quickly helped finish.
The most fun things we’ve done…
Running into the freezing sea with my son and watching him gain more confidence on the beach. Watching them both enjoy being outside more. Hauser and Wirth have a meadow designed by landscape designer Piet Oudolf. Filled with wild flowers and butterflies and Smiljan Radić pavilion which was first at the Serpentine in 2014.
Some things we learned…
Resorts are wonderful for peace of mind and some relaxation, but always check the surrounding areas for more variety in food options as it can be heavy on the chicken nuggets and chips.
Research your service stations, most roads have amazing farm shops like Teals and Strawberry Fields.
And, you don’t need to pay to see Stonehedge, as you get a great view in the car from the A303.
The souvenir I’m bringing home…
Shells and stones from Porthminster and Porthmeor beaches. We also always pick up a fridge magnet and a few artists’ postcards from Tate St Ives.
What the kids will remember most…
The children’s centre at Tate St Ives, which caters to a wide range of ages. The ease of transitioning from town strolls to beach-ready in minutes, and the novelty of wearing swimsuits into beachfront cafés. And, unsurprisingly, the hotel pancake breakfasts.
