A Postcard from Tartu, Estonia by Romy Raijmann

Romy Raijmann is a writer, based in Amsterdam, and founder of Orange and Kin, a hub of writings on motherhood, creativity and well-being. Romy's writing is thoughtful and refreshing, and I think you'll love her perspectives. 

I am delighted to have Romy's insights on her Estonian family summer.

HELLO FROM…

Hello from Tartu, Estonia. Every year during summer, we visit my husband’s home country. Even though it has been our summer destination for the past decade, each year there is always something new to see, more history to be learned, and new restaurants to experience. We are constantly surrounded by forests and greenery: it’s truly the place where our body and mind find peace. 

Estonia holds so much history, and the people are very proud of it. For example the market hall Tartu Turg, founded in 1939, has photos at the entrance of the people who used to sell their produce back in the 20th century. Estonians love to keep the stories of the generations before them alive. At the same time, Estonia is a global leader in digitalisation and forward thinking. Tartu was even named the European Capital of Culture in 2024! 

The people are so kind! As a multicultural family, we feel very at home and welcomed here. Also, the kids just love running around and exploring. Their roots lie here, and to me it seems like they are open to learn and to try everything. Luckily for them, there is much to do!

WHERE WE’RE STAYING…

 When we travel to Estonia, we stay with my husband's family. The house was built by my husband’s great-grandfather, and over the decades the house has been restored, renovated, and well maintained by my father-in-law. The house is next to a cemetery, which is more like a forest. It is stunning, with so much diverse greenery that it almost looks exotic. This cemetery is the resting place for all the relatives who once lived in this house, and somehow it’s so comforting that they are still so close.

It is very important for me that our kids feel connected to their heritage and culture, and since we do not live in Estonia permanently, these trips are how we keep that connection alive. I know what it feels like to have your heritage split between two places. So to me, it is amazing to see the kids running around in the same place my husband grew up as a child.  

THE BEST MEALS WE’VE HAD…

When we travel with our kids, the best meals are the ones we’re able to eat warm and in peace. This makes Aparaaditehas our favourite spot. It is a cultural creative centre in Tartu, once an old factory building, and now it’s a hub for multiple restaurants, vintage stores, bookstores and even galleries. I highly recommend the art gallery Kogo. There is also a playground for kids right in the courtyard, which means they can play while you enjoy a drink, nibble on some snacks on the terrace, or go for a vintage stroll, all without losing sight of them. It’s a win-win for everyone.

Cruffin is our favourite spot for coffee and pastries; their locations are also laptop-friendly. 

The best meal we have had, believe it or not, was at the AHHAA museum: a creamy and rich fresh caught salmon soup, called lõhesupp. The standard for fresh and healthy food is upheld everywhere.

FUN THINGS WE’VE DONE…

We all love going to museums: the Estonian National Museum and AHHAA Science Centre are our favourites. We can easily spend four hours in both places and still feel like there is something that we missed out on. The Estonian National Museum even has a play area, which looks like a magical forest, it’s quite impressive and super fun for younger kids.

When the sun is out, the Elistvere Animal Park is always a good idea. It’s a 20 minute car ride from Tartu. There you will find bison, foxes, wolves, bears, lynxes and many more. The park is huge so all the animals have an enormous amount of space to roam, it is a very different experience than a typical city zoo. Before it became a wildlife sanctuary, it used to be a historic estate dating back to 1355. 

When we walked through the park, we came across beautiful ruins. To me, ruins hold something so magical. I found myself thinking about how this place used to be filled with people walking, talking and laughing together. I love how Estonia turns places into something new while keeping a bit of their history alongside them.

SOMETHING I’VE LEARNED…

Normally at home, we have dinner around 18:00. In Estonia, we eat a warm, heavier meal around 15:00, and in the evening around 19:00, a light mixed plate with e.g. sliced cucumber, a boiled egg, cottage cheese, sardines, crackers, fruits and olives. I noticed how it left us more energetic in the evening, which comes in handy after the kids have gone to sleep. It also makes the evening routine less hectic for us. I also felt lighter waking up the next morning. 

Even though it’s harder to keep that rhythm at home while working full-time, it has become our weekend norm.

THE SOUVENIR I’M BRING HOME…

 I brought home a painting I laid my eyes on at a random outdoor vintage market. There was just something about the woman’s eyes. I placed her at the stairs of our second floor, so now every day before bed and when I go downstairs to start my day, I walk past this woman smiling at me.

I have also developed a love for heavy, thick glass objects. As the kids get older, I feel more and more comfortable having valuable and fragile things around the house again. I love it when my house feels like a museum of all the places we have been. And most importantly, I always take a piece of Estonia home with me.